Most of us would sell our souls for a bowl of mac ’n’ cheese, happily disregarding good intentions. So I hope that this alternative version in which a tomato sauce replaces the usual rich white one will win friends. You still get generous pockets of gooey cheese, and a lovely crispy top, but it is altogether fresher. The gold standard here involves making your own slowcooked sauce, and I would up the quantity, as it freezes beautifully. But otherwise, a couple of tubs of a good ready-made tomato sauce will still turn out a decent mac ’n’ cheese.